Durmitor mountain: fairytales of valley Lomni do

If we would transform our lives into a mosaic of moments, it would be the most valuable work in human history. Long time ago, from one dear book I have learned  that the mosaic is a guide for the personal legend. That legend that we all have, while confused and discouraged we are looking for meaning that is so simple and too large to be visible to the naked eye. Some of us feel that the only purpose is to live that legend and to be happy. When you are happy, your mother is happy, and your child , and your friend is happy, nature is happy, the universe, and God.

Yesterday morning I woke up, enjoyed my bath gel with the smell of olives, until the water became completely cold , stopped by to buy espresso and took a bus to Žabljak.

This morning I was at the place where I haven’t been for the years, where not many people walked for the years, but long time ago there were the hosts and housewives, and children, merchants and shepherds.

That’s the place hidden in the massive of Durmitor mountain, place  where important parts of my character were made, where you can hear the crickets, as they sit on your shoulder, where if you take a bit longer gaze into the mountains, you can see the spindly deer running.

I feel so peaceful there, like that is not the part of this world. It’s so pure and out of any evil. I’m safe there. I’m myself there. Fu**ing fairy there. J

Durmitor is stunning, every part of it (I would say it’s the most beautiful mountain in Montenegro), but Lomni do is special for me. All that peaks, that amazing valley, the view, the smell and one of my favorite lakes – Modro lake. Modro lake is placed 800 m far from the road Žabljak – Sedlo – Trsa. It’s is situated 11 km from Žabljak town. Its altitude is 1609 m, the surface is 7300 square meters. Maximum depth of the lake is 3,3 m. Its coast is long between 630 m and 700 m and is mostly stable during the year, without any decreasing and increasing of water level. The wildest part of lake is on its southern side, below the rocky massif of Ranisava peak.

Man is a part of nature, and his war against nature is inevitably a war against himself, so this place, more than others, make you be in the peace with yourself, and every single person should feel the way I feel when I’m sitting on the rock above Modro lake, looking at the most beautiful scenery in the world. Feel endless. Small and infinite at the same time, cause we are small and we are infinite.

Today, when I got back to Žabljak, I felt something like that. On my way to buy bread, in front of the shop, on the bench was guy in his late twenties, with bright eyes, the beard, the dirty clothes, with hiking shoes and a huge backpack. He followed me with curious eyewink, and I wondered if he is traveling alone, from which point on the globe he arrived, if he was hungry. If he felt good in Montenegro, in Zabljak. With bread I bought Snickers, because when I was on the mountain in these boots and with that backpack, it was certainly the best snack in the world. I asked him if he was tired, I found out that his country is not that far away from Montenegro (Bulgaria) and gave him a candy bar. I will describe his face properly if I tell you to imagine Santa Claus when he was young – pretty face, good-natured, sparkling eyes and the beard – perhaps as many inches as cities he visited. He rolled a cigarette for me, we talked for a long time, and then parted .

My house smelled of homemade cookies with cinnamon, I made coffee with milk, listened I’m into you on repeat and smiled paying tribute to a wonderful, wonderful day.

Kada bi smo živote pretvorili u mozaik momenata, to bi bila najvrijednija djela u ljudskoj istoriji. Davno sam iz jedne drage knjige naucila da je taj mozaik putokaz za ličnu legendu. Onu koju imamo svi dok zbunjeno i obeshrabljeno jurcamo trgajući za smislom koji je tako jednostavan i prevelik da bi bio vidljiv golim okom. Samo neki od nas osjete da je jedini smisao proživjeti svoju legendu i samim tim biti srećan. Kada si srećan i tvoja majka je srećna, i tvoje dijete, i prijatelj ti je srećan, i priroda je srećna, i univerzum, i Bog, i sve čije si je srećno.

Juče ujutru sam se probudila, uživala u kupci sa mirisom maslina, sve dok voda nije postala potpuno hladna, svratila po espresso za ponijeti i sjela na bus za Žabljak.

Ovog jutra sam se našla na mjestu na kom nisam bila godinama, na koje nije mnogo ljudi kročilo godinama, a nekada je tamo bilo domaćina i domaćica, i djece i trgovaca i pastira.

To je mjesto skriveno u masivu Durmitora, mjesto gdje sam izgradila bitne dijelove svoje ličnosti, gdje se cvrčci čuju kao da ti sjede na ramenu, gdje ćeš ako se malo duže zagledaš u pravcu šume ugledati vretenastu srnu u trku.

Osjećam se tako mirno na tom mjestu, kao da ono nije dio baš ovog svijeta. Tako je čisto i izvan svakog zla. Sigurna sam tamo. Svoja sam tamo. Je*ena vila sam tamo.

Durmitor je nevjerovatan, svaki dio njega (rekla bih, najljepša planina Crne Gore), ali Lomni do je posebno mjesto za mene. Svi ti vrhovi, predivna dolina, taj pogled, miris i jedno od mojih najdražih jezera – Modro jezero. Modro jezero je skriveno 800m od puta Zabljak – Sedlo – Trsa, na 11km od Zabljaka.

Nalazi se na visini od 1609m, dok mu je površina 7300m2. Maksimalna dubina jezera je 3,3m. Obala mu je duga izmedju 630 i 700m. Tokom godine je stabilno i nema znatnih promjena nivoa vode u zavisnosti od godišnjeg doba.

Čovjek je dio prirode i svaki rat sa prirodom, rat je sa samim sobom, a ovo mjesto, više nego druga, čini da budeš u miru sa sobom. Svako bi se trebao osjećati onako kako se ja osjećam kada sjedim na stijeni iznasd Modrog jezera, posmatrajući najljepšu panorama svijeta. Osjećati beskraj u sebi. Jer smo tako mli, a tako beskrajni. Tako divni.

Danas, kad sam se vratila na Žabljak, osjetila sam nešto slično tome. Krećem da kupim hleb, a ispred radnje, na klupi, sjedi momak u kasnim dvadesetim, svijetlih očiju, sa bradom, u ishabanoj odjeći, planinarskim cipelama i sa ogromnim ruksakom. Radoznalo me prati pogledom, a ja se pitam da li putuje sam, sa koje je tačke na globusu stigao, da li je gladan. Uz hleb kupujem i Snickers, jer kada sam ja na planini u takvim cipelama i sa takvim ruksakom, to je zasigurno najbolji zalogaj na svijetu. Pitala sam ga da li je umoran, saznala da njegova zemlja i nije tako daleko, iz Bugarske je i poklonila mu čokoladicu. Njegovo lice ću najbolje opisati ako vam kažem da zamislite Deda Mraza kad je bio mlad – lijepo lice, dobroćudno, svjetlucave oči i brada – možda onoliko centimetara koliko gradova. Smotao je cigaretu za mene, pričali smo jako dugo, a onda se rastali.

Moja kuća je mirisala na domaće kolače sa cimetom, skuvala sam kafu sa mnogo mlijeka, pustila I’m into you na repeat i osmjehnula se odajući počast predivnom danu.